The JP Ross/ Panfish On The Fly Phat Glass - A Fly Rod for Bass and Other Predators

I first met Jordan, the owner of JP Ross Fly Rods, several years ago at a fly fishing show in Massachusetts. We were introduced by a mutual friend who thought we would hit it off. Long story short, we did! As a result of that very first meeting, JP Ross Fly Rods released a panfish-themed fly rod, the JP Ross/Panfish On The Fly “Toad,” which turned out to be a big success. When Jordan approached me about another collaboration, I jumped at the chance. This time the focus was not panfish but the fish that eat panfish!

I am very excited to announce my second collaboration with JP Ross Fly Rods. A special edition of their new Phat Glass 7/8 weight fly rod. Some people have asked why I decided to promote a fly rod rated for a 7 or 8-weight fly line when the focus of Panfish On The Fly is fly fishing for panfish. The answer is simple. If you’ve spent any time fishing for panfish, you’ve probably run into bigger predators like largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, northern pike, even large catfish. These larger fish live alongside and often hunt the sunfish and other panfish we chase with our flies.

Although big fish often eat panfish flies sometimes it works the other way around!

Bigger fish often go after the panfish flies we use or the actual fish we’ve hooked. I’ve caught plenty of bass and other predators on my light panfish rods but lost just as many because the tackle was too light. That’s why I usually bring two rods on warm water trips: a 3 or 4-weight for panfish and a heavier rod for bigger fish. When fishing from a float tube, kayak, or boat, I keep both rods rigged and ready. The second rod is stored in a rod holder or behind the seat, always within easy reach. This way, if I spot bigger fish or get a follow on a hooked panfish, I can quickly switch rods without stopping to re-rig. When walking the bank or wading, carrying two rods isn’t practical, so I often choose a slightly heavier 5- or 6-weight rod. This works but is not the best solution, as the rod is often too heavy for panfish and still too light for a big predator. Not to mention, by the time you change flies, the opportunity has often passed you by.

Being able to quickly pick up a second rigged and ready fly rod while perch fishing allowed me to catch this pickerel that followed a hooked perch up to the boat.

Fly fishing for predators such as bass, pike, and other large fish is exciting and fun on its own, and I enjoy it just as much as fishing for panfish. In fact, I often do both on the same trip—panfish in the afternoon, then bass during that magical last hour of light.

Fly fishing for largemouth bass is a worthy pursuit on its own. Exciting eats from strong fish that love to take the fight to the air!

My first project with JP Ross was the Panfish On The Fly edition of their “Toad” 4-weight. It was designed it with a stiffer butt section, which helps when hooking larger fish like bass by giving you extra backbone for the fight. The Toad is great for casting lighter panfish flies, even smaller bass patterns, and controlling small to medium-sized fish, but as a 4-weight fly rod, there are limitations to how well it can handle bigger, wind-resistant flies or the powerful fight of larger predators.

The JP Ross/Panfish On The Fly Toad is a panfish themed 7 ½ foot S-Glass 4wt. My go-to fly rod for panfish!

The new Phat Glass is an 8-foot 7/8-weight rod designed for these larger fish. The Phat Glass is constructed of S-Glass, a lighter, stronger form of fiberglass. This rod has a fast action, which allows you to cast large, bulky flies for bass and other predators and gives you the power to steer big fish away from cover.

The Phat Glass is a 7/8 weight fly rod perfect for bass and other large predators. (prototype Phat Glass with a smallmouth themed reel seat shown here)

I extensively field-tested a prototype of this fly rod on a bass fishing trip to Maine this May. During this trip, the rod was fished by half a dozen different anglers with different levels of experience. Several different species of predatory fish were targeted (largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, and big chain pickerel) with a wide variety of flies. We fished a number of different line weights (7-9 weights) and tapers (weight forward, double taper, bass and bass bug tapers), and while each angler had their preference in lines, the rod handled them all. In the end, I was immensely pleased with the performance of this fly rod!

A good largemouth taken on a game changer and the new Phat Glass from JP Ross Fly Rod Company during the filed testing of the prototype..

The Panfish On The Fly special edition of the Phat Glass is a largemouth bass-themed fly rod. It features a hand-painted reel seat by the artist Jeff Kimball, and the rod blank features a sketch of a frog pattern of my own design, the Bog Frog. I love the idea that purchasing this fly rod not only supports a long-time custom rod builder but also a local artist as well.

The handprinted largemouth bass-themed reel seat by artist Jeff Kimball (JP Ross photo)

The white blank features spiral lime green thread wraps on the butt section, and a retro-style logo harkens back to the days when fiberglass fly rods like the Shakespeare Wonder Rod dominated the market. But make no mistake: Modern S-glass rods are nothing like the old Wonder Rod your grandfather used. They are lighter, have plenty of power, are more responsive, recover faster, and are a joy to cast.

This bass was caught on the fly, pictured on the rod blank. It was caught on the very first cast I made with the final production version of the fly rod! I am taking that as a sign of good things to come.

Below are some photos (provided by Jordan) showing details of the new JP Ross/Panfish On The Fly Phat Glass.

If you would like to learn more about this fly rod or purchase one for yourself, you can check out the Phat Glass on JP Ross Fly Rod Company’s website by clicking the button below.

If you would like to contact me directly to ask questions or discuss details about the fly rod, the button below will connect you with me.

It’s a Crappie Time of Year

The pun in the title aside, if you chase crappie with a fly rod, now is the time, at least in my neck of the woods. Each year, I watch the trees around my home, specifically Bradford Pears and Dogwoods, for a sign that it’s time to chase crappies. Both trees have white flowers that appear on their branches in early spring. These flowers are my sign that the crappie bite is on. Can I catch them before these trees bloom? The answer is yes. After? Again, another yes. However, when the Bradford Pears and the Dogwoods are in bloom, the fishing is exceptional.

Bradford Pear trees in bloom on the banks of a local pond.

The blooming of flowers and the emergence of insects are triggered by the same environmental factors, such as air and soil temperatures and hours of available daylight.  This phenomenon is called a phenological correlation.  I have watched flowering plants for many years to give me clues about what’s going on in my local trout streams.  This information can also provide valuable insights into the comings and goings of warmwater species.

Large wet flies are a solid choice for early season crappies.

Depending on annual weather patterns, these trees begin flowering from early March to late April. This year, due to a particularly cold winter, I had to wait a couple of weeks longer than usual. During this longer wait, I enjoyed a bit more trout fishing while watching the Bradford Pear behind my house for those telltale white flowers to appear. Regardless of the severity of the winter, spring will eventually arrive.

If you fish in other regions, you may not have these particular trees nearby, but the idea remains the same. Local flowering trees, shrubs, or plants that bloom in early spring can be reliable cues that signal crappie activity in your area. Try observing what blooms just as the crappie fishing heats up, and use those seasonal changes as a guide.

A cluster of flowers on a Bradford Pear tree.

The Bradford Pear will bloom first (early to mid March), followed by the Dogwoods (mid to late April).  The two trees look similar at a distance, but their flowers' scents will give them away.  While the Dogwood flowers have a pleasing, sweet smell, I find the scent of the Bradford Pear rather unpleasant.  

In my area, the Bradford Pear flowers indicate that the pre-spawn stage has begun. By the time the Dogwoods bloom, spawning activity is usually in full swing. Crappies, which prefer slightly cooler water, will spawn before other sunfish species such as bass and bluegills.

Small streamers are go-to pattern for crappies.

Favorite Flies:

As we enter the second week in April here in the mid-Atlantic, the Bradford Pears are covered in white flowers, and crappies are returning to shallow water to feed and look for potential spawning sites. These fish feed ravenously at this time of year to build a calorie reserve to get them through the rigors of spawning.

A small craft fur streamer can be cast on the lightest fly rods

At this time of year, my preferred crappie patterns are big wet flies and small streamers. Some of my go-to wet flies include classic patterns like Woolly Worms, Soft Hackles, Carey Specials, as well as traditional winged wet flies. When it comes to streamers, I have good success with woolly buggers, small craft fur streamers, mini Clouser Minnows, small Zonkers, James Wood Bucktails, and Marabou Leeches. Later in the season, I will add topwater patterns to my arsenal. For surface action, I like my Triangle Bug, small hard and soft-bodied poppers, foam-bodied spiders, gurglers, and the classic Sneaky Pete. Crappies will feed on the surface, especially on overcast days and early and late in the day when light levels are lower.

Large brightly colored soft hackle wet flies are deadly on crappie!

The early pre-spawn season is often plagued by unstable weather, and this year has been no exception. Occasional seventy-degree days begin to warm the water and bring fish shallow; then, when a cold front brings spitting snow and thirty-degree temperatures, the fish retreat to the depths. Even in these conditions, the fish will feed, but flies must be presented on painfully slow retrieves. During these times, I swap out my small streamers for patterns like my Creature.

The Creature is a great pattern to use when fish get turned off by spring-time weather changes.

The Creature is a “mop-fly”, that is, a fly that is tied using dust mop fibers.  But rather than simply lashing a mop fiber to the hook, this pattern includes rubber legs and pheasant rump feathers for extra movement, along with a dubbed hot spot of contrasting color. I fish the Creature with a slow hand-twist retrieve, pausing occasionally. On the pause, the fly hovers and then sinks very slowly. The fish tend to hold onto the soft, fleshy mop material longer than with other flies, allowing me to detect subtle takes in cold water.

The Creature is a “mop fly” designed for warm water fish and is deadly on crappies when cold fronts give them a case of lockjaw.

As the water warms, small streamers and big wet flies retrieved with small strips rack up big numbers of fish. By the time the Dogwoods bloom, crappies begin to look to the surface for their next meal. Although crappies are not known for surface feeding, there is a brief window each spring when I catch them on topwater patterns. I look forward to catching big crappies on the surface every spring!

The Triangle Bug catches a lot of crappies on overcast days once the water warms.

Gear:

In my opinion, the fly rod is the perfect tool for catching crappies.  The long, flexible rods prevent hooks from tearing out of the crappie's delicate mouth.  For this reason, I reach for fiberglass or slow-action graphite fly rods.  Rod weights range from three to five, depending on fly size and wind conditions.  

My favorite crappie rod is the Panfish On The Fly/JP Ross Toad, a 7’-7” fiberglass (S-Glass) 4wt. Perfect for casting any fly you would use for crappies.

This year, I have also been enjoying fishing with ultralight one and two-weight rods when conditions allow.  Some of my local lakes contain stunted crappie populations that seldom exceed a foot in length.  On these waters, I am thoroughly enjoying my new Orvis Superfine one-weight.  Despite their small size, these little crappies can put a serious bend in this rod!  While a floating flyline will handle most of your fishing, I always have an intermediate and sink tip line on hand when I need to present flies a little deeper.

Where To Find Them

I tend to focus on smaller bodies of water early in the season as they warm up faster, then move on to larger lakes as the season progresses.   In the spring, crappies will be found around structures such as fallen trees, aquatic vegetation, submerged brush piles and timber, pilings around bridges and docks, and rip-rap areas.  One lake in my area has a corrugated steel wall along the shoreline where it abuts a roadway.  This uneven vertical surface is a magnet for crappies.

Crappies love to hang out around natural and man made structures, like docks.

I have a few local ponds that offer good bank fishing, with open shorelines that allow for fly fishing.  However, most of my fishing will be done from a float tube or a kayak. Watercraft will give you better access to fish and offshore structure, and allow for more effective presentations that are impossible to replicate when fishing from shore.

Float tubes and kayaks will give you better access to good crappie water.

The first crappies of the year are already in the books. I do most of my crappie fishing on smaller ponds and lakes, since these waters tend to warm up faster in spring and often hold good numbers of fish. Occasionally, I will also fish slow-moving sections of rivers for crappie, but my main focus is definitely stillwater. I am looking forward to enjoying more crappie fishing in the weeks to come, on those days when I can pry myself out of the local trout streams!

Wet Fly Swing Podcast Episode 888

Recently, I joined Dave Stewart on the Wet Fly Swing Podcast. In this episode, we explore several aspects of fly fishing for panfish and discuss how it can sharpen your skills and make you a better angler. The episode can be accessed through the button below. You can also find the podcast episode on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts.

I have always been a fan of podcasts.  I enjoy listening to fishing-related content on my way to and from the water on fishing trips.  I have had the pleasure of taking part in numerous podcast interviews over the years on the joys of fly fishing for panfish.  You can find a full list of them here.  

I will also be participating in a Fly Fishing Boot Camp program organized by The Wet Fly Swing Podcast.  I will be giving a program on Monday, March 16, 2026, at 9:00 pm EST on Fly Fishing for Panfish. More to follow…

A Break From Tradition - The Rubber Leg Soft Hackle

A Proven Pattern - Why Change It?

Soft hackle wet flies are hands down my favorite panfish patterns when fishing below the surface. Traditionally tied soft hackles are extremely effective, so it may seem unnecessary to change them. However,  sometimes making a thoughtful adjustment—like adding rubber legs—can actually improve an already successful pattern. I do not believe in changing flies for the sake of novelty. Instead, my purpose is to explore whether rubber legs make the pattern more effective. Read on...

Traditionally tied Hare’s Ear Soft Hackles

A Break From Tradition

Knotted pheasant tail legs have been used on soft hackle flies for decades, adding movement and bugginess that hackle and dubbing alone cannot. The downside: knotted pheasant tail fibers are among the most delicate materials I've worked with, and the legs are time-consuming to make. Although finished flies look great, the legs often break after a fish or two.  

An adult cranefly pattern tied with knotted pheasant tail legs

Fixing The Problem

Looking for a more durable solution, I adopted a technique I used on another fly that used knotted pheasant tail fiber legs - the Crane Fly, also called Daddy Long Legs by our friends across the pond. Craneflies are one of my favorite summertime topwater panfish flies. The big, gangly bugs are common in my area, and I often encounter them on the water. The knotted pheasant legs are an essential aspect of this pattern, so I go through the trouble of adding them. However, they suffer the same problems as knotted pheasant tail legs on soft hackle wet flies. They are too damn fragile and don't last long. Once the fly loses its legs, it continues to work, but I get more looks and fewer refusals when the legs are present.

A adult cranefly tied with knotted silicon legs

Synthetic vs. Natural

I received samples of Hareline's Micro Grizzly Flutter Legs, which are thin, barred silicon legs ideal for small flies. Replacing the knotted pheasant tail legs on craneflies with this material made tying easier, and the legs are far more durable while preserving the multi-joint look.

Early versions of this pattern used knotted silicon legs

I next used micro-silicon legs to replace knotted pheasant tail in my soft hackle patterns. They worked well, offering better movement when the fly is pulled through water. Unlike knotted pheasant legs that collapse during retrieves, silicon legs stay active, enhancing the fly's appeal.

The K.I.S.S. Principle

My friend and fellow fly tier Lou Digena follows the K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple, Stupid) principle in many of his flies, emphasizing that unnecessary complexity should be avoided—most systems work best when simple rather than complicated.

Eliminating the knots in the leg material made tying easier and did not reduce its effectiveness

Following this principle, I removed knots from the silicon legs. The fly still produced as well, so I was happy to skip the extra step of preparing knotted rubber legs.

Why Complicate Things By Adding Legs In The First Place?

Why even bother adding legs to an already successful fly? A traditional soft hackle is extremely productive for panfish, so it's fair to question if adding silicon legs is necessary. My thought was that adding silicon legs could make it more effective. This addition is not for novelty but for genuine performance improvement.

Panfish love rubber legs. The movement from added legs is irresistible, explaining why many panfish flies include them. Legs on soft hackles improve action and help prop up the hackle fibers when retrieved, giving the fly a more noticeable profile in stained waters.

The legs also extend the life of the fly. Hackle fibers are delicate and often get damaged. Rubber legs provide consistent movement and profile even after the hackle fibers are worn away, maintaining the fly's effectiveness. One could argue that the K.I.S.S. Principle may warrant eliminating the feather hackle completely. Maybe that is true, but I am not ready to go there…yet.

The Soft Hackle Hare’s Ear

One of my favorite soft hackle patterns for panfish is the Hare’s Ear.  When fishing the fly in warm water, I change it up a little. I swap the dark thorax of the traditional version for a bright orange one.  This provides a subtle bit of color that I feel attracts more fish.  It has been well documented that panfish have an affinity for bright colors. This was the first wet fly I added rubber legs to.  These days, I seldom tie them without adding fine rubber legs. Feel free to experiment with adding fine rubber/silicon legs to your favorite wet fly pattern.

Decide for yourself

Tie a few up and see if you notice an improvement over traditionally tied soft hackles. The core argument here is whether a simple addition—such as silicon legs—can enhance a classic pattern. Decide for yourself if this extra material is worth your time and effort on panfish wet flies.